The pattern is done in double crochet stitches (db), from bottom to top.
This model has been realized using a 1mm crochet thread and a gauge 20 crochet thread (a gauge supposed to be crochetted with crochet size 1.25mm , but I like a tighter stitch look better). The exact reference I used for the model in the pictures is DMC Cebelia 20.

You need to know:

- how to chain stitch
- how to make a simple crochet stitch (sc)
- how to make a double crochet stitch (db)
- how to crochet several double crochet stitches together
- how to crochet two simple crochet stitches together

At the beginning of each row, 3 chain stitches for turning count as a stitch.
When a row starts by 2 chain stitch, it is because a decreasing is needed. A chain 2 followed by a db is equivalent to 2 db together. This way, you form one stitch with two.

Main body piece:

On a base made of 36 chain stitches:
- row 1: 3 chain stitches for the first stitches, db to end. (36 stitches)
- row 2: 3 chain stitches for the first stitches, db to end. (36 stitches)
- row 3: 3 chain stitches, 1 db in the same stitch, db to last, 2db in the last stitch (38 stitches)
- row 4: 3 chain stitches, 1 db in the same stitch, db to last, 2db in the last stitch (40 stitches)
- row5: 3 chain stitches, 2db in one stitch for the following stitches: number 15,16,17,18 and 23, 24, 25, 26. 1db in each stitch for the rest of the stitches. This will make the shape of the two cups. (48 stitches)
- row 6: 3 chain stitches, db to end. (48 stitches)
Cut the thread and close.
Don't worry if you check it on your blythe and it seems too tight: it is on purpose, you will add a few rows on the side in the end, to sew some snaps

Front

First cup:

On top of the main body piece, it is crocheted between (including) stitches number 15 to 24:
- Join the thread on stitch number 15.
- row 1: chain 2, 1db in each stitch for the 3 following stitches, 2db in each of 2 next stitches, 1db in each stitch for the following 2 stitches, 2db together for the next 2 stitches. (10 stitches on a base of 10 stitches, but with some room for the EBL boobs and triangle shaped on the sides)
- row 2: chain 2, 1db in each of the following 7 stitches, 2db together for the next two stitches. (8 stitches on a 10 stitches base)
- row 3: chain 2, 1db in each of the following 5 stitches, 2db together for the next two stitches. (6 stitches on a 8 stitches base)
- row 4: chain 2, 2db together for the following two stitches, 3db together for the following three stitches (2 stitches on a 6 stitches base)
- row 5: chain 1, 2 sc together on the two stitches. (1 stitch on a 2 stitches base)
- chain around 30, to make the lace which will later close the top behind the neck.

Second cup:

On top of the main body piece, it is crocheted between (including) stitches number 25 to 34:
- Join the thread on stitch number 25 (just after the end of the first triangle cup).
- proceed as for first cup.

Back

Finishing:

For sewing snaps, it is easier and neater to work on single crochet because the stitches are tighter. This is why it can be a good idea to add a few vertical rows in single crochet on each side of the main body piece.
For this finishing step, the exact count will be different depending on your personal natural tension.
My crochet books give a rule of 3 sc on the side of each db, but for me, 5sc on the side of 2db work better with this thread and crochet, with my natural tension. Just do as you go, you will "feel" the amount that works for you, it is the one that gives a straight finishing.

You can also use this step to rectify a slight difference in tension, by doing as much rows as necessary to reach the good circumference of a blythe body.
Myself, I added two rows of single crochet on each vertical side of the main body piece.

Once it is done and your doll is happy with the size, decide which side is the right side and which one is the wrong side, hide all the thread ends in the stitches on the wrong side, sew snaps and hide the thread ends in the work.