You will need:

• 2mm needles
• 4 stitch markers (to better see where to add stitches)
• 30cm of yarn in a contrasting color
• yarn needle
• sewing needle to sew studs
• sock yarn (fingering weight)
• 2 5mm studs
• matching sewing thread

You need to know:

• How to knit and how to purl
• Stockinette: purl even rows, knit odd rows.
• Ribbing 1/1: knit 1 stitch, purl the next, repeat.
• How to increase one stitch. In this pattern I use right slanting "make 1" and left slanting "make 1".

You can find a tutorial here for instance. You can use other styles of increases, according to the effect you want to get from the raglan.

• How to knit two stitches together.

Abbreviations:

• kn: knit n stitches
• pn: purl n stitches
• m1l: left slanting make 1
• m1r: right slanting make 1
• k2tog: knit 2 stitches together

You will need two strands of yarn, to knit the arms while the body is waiting. If you just have one ball and you can't find its tail, make a small ball of around 15m and put it aside for knitting the arms.

Raglan: cast-on: 24 stitches

• 3 first rows: 1/1 ribbing: (k1,p1) repeat from ( to ) until the end.
• row 4: purl: p5, place marker, p4, place marker, p7, place marker, p4, place marker. p4.
• row 5: (knit until marker, m1r, slip marker on the right needle, k1, m1l) repeat from ( to ), knit to end. You have added 8 stitches in total. (32 stitches)

Continue until row 16:

• row 6 and all even rows: purl
• row 7 and all odd rows: repeat row 5.

You now have 72 stitches on the needles.

Thread the yarn of contrasting color onto the yarn needle, and use it to keep the stitches corresponding to the body waiting while you knit the arms.

While removing the markers as you go:

• Slip 11 stitches on the contrasting yarn (right back).
• Slip the next 15 stitches on the right needle (right arm).
• Slip the next 20 stitches on the contrasting yarn (front).
• Slip the next 15 stitches on the right needle (left arm).
• Slip the remaining 11 stitches on the contrasting yarn (left back).
• Put the stitches corresponding to both arms on the left needle.

Arms:

• With a new strand of yarn, knit both arms in stockinette, until the desired length (around 5,5cm from the first row for a full arm length)
• Starting on the wrong side, finish with 3 rows of 1/1 ribbing.
• Cast-off. Keep around 30cm of thread before cutting the yarn, in order to sew the sleeve later.

Body:

Transfer back the remaining stitches on the needles.

• Starting with the right back: k10, k2tog (last stitch from right back with first stitch from front), k18, k2tog (last stitch from front with first stitch from left back), k10.
• Continue in stockinette stitch until the desired length (for a hip-length sweater, knit 2 cm from the underarm).
• Starting on wrong side, knit 3 rows in ribbing 1/1. Cast off.

Finishing:

Close the arms by sewing the edges 1 stitch from each side. Sew the studs on the back, one on the top, one on the middle of the sweater. Hide the thread ends.

Hyper Balloon Baby Doll Top

The pattern is done in double crochet stitches (db), from bottom to top.
This model has been realized using a 1mm crochet and a size 20 crochet thread (a gauge supposed to be crochetted with crochet size 1.25mm , but I like a tighter stitch for dolls clothes). The exact reference I used for the model in the pictures is DMC Cebelia 20.

You need to know:

• how to chain stitch (ch) (in french maille chainee)
• how to make a simple crochet stitch (sc) (in french maille simple)
• how to make a double crochet stitch (db) (in french bride)
• how to crochet  two double crochet stitches together (2dbtog)
• how to do a slip stitch (ss) (in french maille coulee)

Special  motif:
The lowest part of this top has a straight shape, and is made of shells, which you can easily replace by whatever other classical or original motif. I built the motif of this exact model like this:

• row 1: prepare arches for the shells groups. 1ch, 1sc in the same (first) stitch, 1sc in the next stitch, | 3ch (arch), 1sc in each of the next 3 stitches | repeat from | to |, finish with 2sc
• row 2: 1ch, 1sc in the same (first) stitch, skip the next stitch, |5db in the next arch of  3ch (shell), 1sc in the 2nd next sc|, repeat from | to |, finishing with: skip the 2nd last stitch, 1sc in the last stitch.
• row 3: 5ch, |1sc in each of the 2nd, 3rd and 4th stitch of the next shell, 3ch|, repeat from | to |, finishing with 2ch and 1db in the last stitch.
• row 4: 3ch, 2db under the first arch of 5ch, |1sc in the 2nd of the next group of 3sc, 5db under the next arch of 3ch (shell)| repeat from | to |, finishing with: 3db in the last arch of 2ch and 1db.
• row 5: 1ml, 1sc in the sane (first) stitch, 1sc in following stitch, |3ch, 1sc in each of the 2nd, 3rd and 4th stitch of the next shell |,  repeat from | to | finishing with: 1sc in each of the 2 last stitches.
• repeat from row 2
  

At the beginning of each row of db, 3 chain stitches for turning count as a stitch.
When a db row starts by 2 chain stitches, it is because a decreasing is needed. A chain 2 followed by a db is equivalent to 2 db together. This way, you form one stitch with two.
.

Upper body piece:

On a base made of 39 chain stitches:

• row 1: 3 ch, 2db in one stitch for the following stitches: number 15,16,17,18 and 22, 23, 24, 25. 1db in each stitch for the rest of the stitches. This will make the shape of the two cups. (47 stitches)

On this base, you will mount the two sides of the back and the front separately.

Right Back:

• row1: 3ch, 1db in the same stitch, 1db in each of next 5 stitches, 2dbtog (8 stitches on a 8 stitches base).
• row 2: 3ch, 1db in each of next 6 stitches, 2db in last stitch (9 stitches).
• row 3:  3ch,  db to end (9 stitches).
• row 4: repeat row 3.

Cut, close the thread.

Front:

• skip 3 stitches from the last stitch of the left back, attach the thread on  the 4th (this will form the armhole).
• row1: 2ch, 1db in each of the 23 next stitches, 2dbtog (24 stitches on a 26 stitches base).
  
• row 2: 3ch, 1db in each following stitch. (24 stitches).
  
• row3: repeat row 3.
  

left shoulder:

• row 1: 3ch, 1db in each 3 following stitches, 2dbtog (5 stitches on a 6 stitches base).
• row2 : 3ch, db to end.(5 stitches).
• row 3-4: repeat row 2.

Cut, close the thread.

right shoulder:

• attach the thread on the 6th stitch counting from the end.
• row 1: 2ch, 1db in each of the 5 following stitches (5 stitches on a 6 stitch base).
• row 2: 3ch, db to end (5 stitches).
• row 3-4: repeat row 2.

Cut, close the thread.

Left Back

• skip 3 stitches from the last stitch of the front piece, attach the thread on the 4th.
• row 1: 2ch, 1 db in each of the next 6 stitches, 2db in the last stitch. (8 stitches on a 8 stitches base)
• row 2: 3ch, 1 db in the same stitch, db to end (9 stitches)
• row 3: 3ch, db to end.(9 stitches)
• row 4: repeat row 3.

Cut, close the thread.

Lower Body Piece

Pull a loop through the first chain of the base chain.

• row 1: 4ch, |skip 1 stitch, 1db in next stitch, 1ch| repeat, finishing with 1db in the last stitch (20db). This will make a row of spaced db where you can pass a ribbon if you wish. Alternatively, you can just make a row of db.
  
• row2:  3ch, 1 stitch in the next 3 stitches, 2db in the next stitch, | 1 stitch in the next 4 stitches, 2db in the next stitch| repeat, 1db in each of the 4 last stitches (46 stitches on a 39 stitches base).
• row 3: 3ch, 1 stitch in the next 4 stitches, 2db in the next stitch, | 1 stitch in the next 5 stitches, 2db in the next stitch| repeat, 1db in each of the 4 last stitches (53 stitches on a 46 stitches base).
• row 4: 3ch, 1 stitch in the next 5 stitches, 2db in the next stitch, | 1 stitch in the next 6 stitches, 2db in the next stitch| repeat, 1db in each of the 4 last stitches (60 stitches on a 53 stitches base).
• row 5: 3ch, 1 stitch in the next 6 stitches, 2db in the next stitch, | 1 stitch in the next 7 stitches, 2db in the next stitch| repeat, 1db in each of the 4 last stitches (67 stitches on a 60 stitches base).
• Continue straight until the desired length. Use the motif described above to make shells like the model shown on the picture.

Balloons:

Since I don't like to sew, the arms parts are crochetted in round around the harmholes.

• Join the thread under the arm hole, on the middle stitch of the 3, on the main body piece.
• row 1:  the aim is to distribute as evenly as possible 51 stitches around the armhole. This is how I do but you may prefer another way: 3ch, 1 db in next stitch, 1 db between the last stitch and the next vertical db, then 4 db on the side of each db, except on each side of the shoulder seam where I put 5, finishing the round by: 1 db between the last vertical db and the first stitch of the under-arm, 1db in last stitch, , join in the first stitch with a slip stitch (51 stitches), turn
• row 2: 3ch, 1db in each  db, join with a slip stitch, (51 stitches), turn
  
• row 3: idem row 2
  
• row 4: 3ch, 2dbtog, |1db, 2dbtog|, repeat between | and | until last stitch, join with a slip stitch (34 stitches), turn
  
• row 5: 2ch, 1db in next stitch, 2dbtog all round, join with a slip stitch (17 stitches), turn
• row 6: 1 ch, 1 sc in the same stitch, sc all around (17 stitches without counting the 1st ch as a stitch), turn
• row 7: idem row 6. Then close and cut the thread.
  

Finishing

Add three rows on each vertical side of the back, in order to sew snaps : 1sc on the side of sc, and 5 sc in total on the side of 2 db. (the count depends on your personal natural tension.

Hide the thread ends into the sweater with an embroidery needle.
Sew two snaps to close the top on the back. I usually put snaps on the very top and at the level of the waistline, and nothing below: some doll pants are bulky at the top so sometimes, extra flare is needed.

I like to  use a very thin silk ribbon or a crochetted one to emphasize the empire waist feature.

I love huge bags where I can put all my life. Sadly, my rhumatologist disagrees.

But dolls don't really have a spine. So it's perfectly ok for them to carry all their favorite rements in their bags.

This one follows strictly a pattern from crochet me magazine which you can find here: Sack Dress Sack. For the size shown, you just use a 2.5mm crochet thread and a yarn that goes with. It's done in half an hour, I think I'll make one for each of the dolls.

1. Make sure you know the basic stitches and are comfortable with crochetting straight with, say, a 2mm crochet before any attempt at the patterns described here. I personally feel anything made with thread gauge larger than 20 seems bulky on a Blythe doll, and the patterns here are made according to my own (subjective but still) taste.
2. For starters, choose a light color. Counting tiny single crochet stitches in black dentelle thread is not for the faint heart.
3. Don't be greedy when buying your first crochet thread bobin. Choose a good, high quality thread, that won't fray easily. You will be making mistakes and will have to unmake then re-crochet. You want to be able to do that easily, and you want the end result to be rewarding to your efforts. You will try with mohair later. Tating thread is a good choice. DMC Cebelia and Olympus Gold are examples of good quality references I know which won't fray easily, but I'm sure there are others not as freely available on my side of the world. Pearled coton threads frays a bit more, so if you are a total beginner, wait for the next learning stage you will be more comfortable.
4. Use a steel crochet to go with this thread.
5. "High" stitches are easier to start with. Keep the patterns in single crochet stitches for when you will be comfortable with a small gauge.
6. When crochetting for dolls' clothes, I always use a crochet smaller than the gauge of the thread prescribes. It gives a more tight result
7. There are excellent ressources on the web for crochet sizes equivalents, free patterns and techniques or basic stitches tutorial. Try which also provides links to a lot of free patterns (please always check the terms of use).

Heart Shaped Sweater

The pattern is done in double crochet stitches (db), from bottom to top.
This model has been realized using a 1mm crochet and a size 8 pearled cotton (a gauge supposed to be crochetted with crochet size 1.25mm , but I like a tighter stitch for dolls clothes). The exact reference I used for the model in the pictures is DMC Petra 8.

You need to know:

• how to chain stitch (ch)
• how to make a simple crochet stitch (sc)
• how to make a double crochet stitch (db)
• how to crochet  two double crochet stitches together (2dbtog)
• how to do a slip stitch (ss)

Abbreviations: skip * stitch (sk*)
Special  stitch:

• picot: 3 chain stitches, a slip stitch in the first chain stitch.
• fantasy stitch: *sc, 1 ch, sk1, 1db, 1 picot, 1db in same stitch, 1 picot, 1db in same stitch, 1ch, sk1*, repeat from * to *
• Optional: you can add pearls to the fantaisy stitch. Having previously put pearls on the thread, make one of them slip between the last stitch and your crochet while doing the middle chain stitch of each picot.
  

At the beginning of each row, 3 chain stitches for turning count as a stitch.
When a row starts by 2 chain stitch, it is because a decreasing is needed. A chain 2 followed by a db is equivalent to 2 db together. This way, you form one stitch with two.
.

Main body piece:

(1) On a base made of 35 chain stitches:

• row 1: 3 ch, db to end. (35 stitches)
• row 2: 3 ch, db to end. (35 stitches)
• row 3: 3 ch, 1 db in the same stitch, db to last, 2db in the last stitch (37 stitches)
• row 4: 3 ch, 1 db in the same stitch, db to last, 2db in the last stitch (39 stitches)
• row 5: 3 ch, 2db in one stitch for the following stitches: number 15,16,17,18 and 22, 23, 24, 25. 1db in each stitch for the rest of the stitches. This will make the shape of the two cups. (47 stitches)

On this base, you will mount the two sides of the back and the front separately. Numbers in green show where to start crochetting once you have finished and cut at each step.


Right Back:

• row 1: 3ch, 1db in the same stitch, 1db in each of next 5 stitches, 2dbtog (8 stitches on a 8 stitches base)
• row 2: 3ch, 1db in each of next 6 stitches, 2db in last stitch (9 stitches)
• row 3:  3ch,  db to end (9 stitches)
• row 4: repeat rank 3

Cut, close the thread.

Front:

• skip 3 stitches from the last stitch from the left back, attach the thread on  the 4th (this will form the armhole, see position 2 in green on the picture).
• rank1: 2ch, 1db in each of the 4 next stitches, 5 db in the same stitch (cup), sk2, 1sc in each of next 9 stitches, sk2, 5db in the same stitch, 1db in each of the next 3 stitches, 2dbtog.
• row 2: 2ch, 1db in each of the next 3 stitches, 2db in each of the next 5 db, sk2, 1sc in each of the next 5 stitches, sk2, 2db in each of the next 5 stitches, 1db in the next 2 stitches, 2dbtog.
• row 3: 3ch, 1db in next 2 stitches, 1db in next 10 db (cup), sk2, 1sc, sk2, db to end.

left shoulder:

• row 1: 3ch, 1db in each 2 following stitches, 2dbtog (4 stitches on a 5 stitches base)
• row 2 : 3ch, db to end.(4 stitches)
• repeat row 2 twice (4 rows in total)

Cut, close the thread.

right shoulder:

• attach the thread on the 5th stitch counting from the end (see position 3 on picture).
  
• row 1: 2ch, 1db in each of the 4 following stitches (4 stitches on a 5 stitch base)
• row 2: 3ch, db to end (4 stitches)
• repeat row 2 twice (4 rows in total)

Cut, close the thread.

Left Back

• skip 3 stitches from the last stitch of the front piece, attach the thread on the 4th (see position 4 on picture).
• row 1: 2ch, 1 db in each of the next 6 stitches, 2db in the last stitch. (8 stitches on a 8 stitches base).
• row 2: 3ch, 1 db in the same stitch, db to end (9 stitches).
• row 3: 3ch, db to end.(9 stitches).
• row 4: repeat rank 3.

Cut, close the thread.

Sew the shoulder parts to the back parts (you can do it with your crochet using slip stitches to gather both sides)

Arms:

Since I don't like to sew, the arms parts are crochetted in round around the harmholes.

• Join the thread under the arm hole, on the middle stitch of the 3, on the main body piece.
• row 1: 3ch, 1 db in next stitch, 2db on the side of each db around, 1db on last stitch, join in the first stitch with a slip stitch (25 stitches without counting the slip stitch), turn
• row 2: 3ch, *2dbtog, 1db in next stitch* repeat until the end and join with a slip stitch (17 stitches), turn
• row 3: 3ch, 1db in each db around, join with a slip stitch, (17 stitches) turn
• repeat row 3,  3 times (6 ranks in total)
• row 7: 1 ch, start the fantaisy stitches with 1sc in the same stitch as the first ch. Finish with with a slip stitch in the first sc.

Finishing

Bottom lace:

• Join the thread at the start of the beginning chain of the main body piece.
• 1ch, 1 sc in the same stitch, fantaisy stitch and finish with two sc.

Back piece:
Add three rows on the vertical side of each side of the back, in order to sew snaps : 1sc on the side of sc, and 5 sc in total on the side of 2 db. (the count depends on your personal natural tension.

Hide the thread ends into the sweater with an embroidery needle.
Sew two snaps to close the sweater. 

The pattern is done in double crochet stitches (db), from bottom to top.
This model has been realized using a 1mm crochet thread and a gauge 20 crochet thread (a gauge supposed to be crochetted with crochet size 1.25mm , but I like a tighter stitch look better). The exact reference I used for the model in the pictures is DMC Cebelia 20.

You need to know:

- how to chain stitch
- how to make a simple crochet stitch (sc)
- how to make a double crochet stitch (db)
- how to crochet several double crochet stitches together
- how to crochet two simple crochet stitches together

At the beginning of each row, 3 chain stitches for turning count as a stitch.
When a row starts by 2 chain stitch, it is because a decreasing is needed. A chain 2 followed by a db is equivalent to 2 db together. This way, you form one stitch with two.

Main body piece:

On a base made of 36 chain stitches:
- row 1: 3 chain stitches for the first stitches, db to end. (36 stitches)
- row 2: 3 chain stitches for the first stitches, db to end. (36 stitches)
- row 3: 3 chain stitches, 1 db in the same stitch, db to last, 2db in the last stitch (38 stitches)
- row 4: 3 chain stitches, 1 db in the same stitch, db to last, 2db in the last stitch (40 stitches)
- row5: 3 chain stitches, 2db in one stitch for the following stitches: number 15,16,17,18 and 23, 24, 25, 26. 1db in each stitch for the rest of the stitches. This will make the shape of the two cups. (48 stitches)
- row 6: 3 chain stitches, db to end. (48 stitches)
Cut the thread and close.
Don't worry if you check it on your blythe and it seems too tight: it is on purpose, you will add a few rows on the side in the end, to sew some snaps

First cup:

On top of the main body piece, it is crocheted between (including) stitches number 15 to 24:
- Join the thread on stitch number 15.
- row 1: chain 2, 1db in each stitch for the 3 following stitches, 2db in each of 2 next stitches, 1db in each stitch for the following 2 stitches, 2db together for the next 2 stitches. (10 stitches on a base of 10 stitches, but with some room for the EBL boobs and triangle shaped on the sides)
- row 2: chain 2, 1db in each of the following 7 stitches, 2db together for the next two stitches. (8 stitches on a 10 stitches base)
- row 3: chain 2, 1db in each of the following 5 stitches, 2db together for the next two stitches. (6 stitches on a 8 stitches base)
- row 4: chain 2, 2db together for the following two stitches, 3db together for the following three stitches (2 stitches on a 6 stitches base)
- row 5: chain 1, 2 sc together on the two stitches. (1 stitch on a 2 stitches base)
- chain around 30, to make the lace which will later close the top behind the neck.

Second cup:

On top of the main body piece, it is crocheted between (including) stitches number 25 to 34:
- Join the thread on stitch number 25 (just after the end of the first triangle cup).
- proceed as for first cup.

Finishing:

For sewing snaps, it is easier and neater to work on single crochet because the stitches are tighter. This is why it can be a good idea to add a few vertical rows in single crochet on each side of the main body piece.
For this finishing step, the exact count will be different depending on your personal natural tension.
My crochet books give a rule of 3 sc on the side of each db, but for me, 5sc on the side of 2db work better with this thread and crochet, with my natural tension. Just do as you go, you will "feel" the amount that works for you, it is the one that gives a straight finishing.

You can also use this step to rectify a slight difference in tension, by doing as much rows as necessary to reach the good circumference of a blythe body.
Myself, I added two rows of single crochet on each vertical side of the main body piece.

Once it is done and your doll is happy with the size, decide which side is the right side and which one is the wrong side, hide all the thread ends in the stitches on the wrong side, sew snaps and hide the thread ends in the work.